Moving It Inside and The Next Level Disassembly of the FrankenMauser

Greetings and Salutations!
Looks like -someone- on OrangeManBad’s team decided to do the smart thing and move the inauguration inside on the 20th. Ostensibly it’s because of “the weather”

Thing is, Raygun Ronnie Reagan’s Inauguration was held at 9 degrees… so the cold I think is just cover for stopping whatever nefarious bullshit mass-casualty event the Leviathan may-or-may not have had planned.

So that’s a good thing.
Sapper and I however are still planning on insuring that the water storage and fuel is topped off. You just never know these days.

Now, on to the latest on the FrankenMauser.

I did a full tear down of it late last night. For this one I’m sticking with the pictures for now and I -might- go with video on the next project as I have that Lee Enfield Mark 4 inbound. The FrankenMauser just doesn’t have that much wrong with it TBH. The finish is in fantastic shape, with only the barest surface rust, the bluing is great all over with the exception of a few piece/parts, and the wood is in unreal condition for a 129 year old Rifle.

Now granted I’m thinking this’s had a few refurbs in it’s loooong life to be in such fine shape, so as of right now I’m hesitant to go full retard on it.

For now of course.

Now as to a few oddities and things I’ve found. One is the buttstock. I believe I mentioned the water damage on it:

Last night/early this AM (0300!) I got confirmation during my detailed teardown. I removed the rear stock butt plate:

The exterior of which had the most rust corrosion of all the surfaces on the rifle. When I removed it and looked inside?

Wowsers!
Not so much corrosion as to lead me to believe that it was exposed to saltwater, but definitely enough to show that it got wet-wet and no one bothered to take the plate off and dry it out. I also closely measured the stains and wood roughness on the stock, and realized you can see that the rifle, at some point, was leaned up against a wall in about 8-9 inches of water for long enough to damage the exterior of the finish on the stock, and completely get under the butt plate.

The blue line is the water/stain line, and what’s funny, is the edge of the stock here:

shows a slight angle where the rifle was leaned against a wall or something. Maybe a better way to show it is to rotate it:

There you go…
Leaned bolt side out for who knows how long in like I stated, about 8-9 inches of water.

Neat huh?

Then, the other interesting thing I found was that this model I have does not have the spring loaded trapdoor on the magazine/trigger guard well. It’s essentially one piece. Later refurbished or arsenal updated M1916s had a release so you could get into the mag well from the bottom.

Now, despite it’s age (1896 date of manufacture by the S/N), it too is in exemplary shape. Only the slightest bit of rust on it, mostly in the inaccessible areas that one wouldn’t normally get to unless you tore the rifle down like I did to it’s finest components:

Just a wee bit o’rust and dirt. Nothing compared to the Mark 3 I did last time. So this weekend I’m going to focus on the stock and the trigger guard, and then do a bit of surface rust removal on the bolt if I have time.

There’s just not a lot that this thing needs.
Good News? Bad News? You decide.

Now as far as the reported headspace issues, I did find an AWESOME company (and I get nothing for the ‘plug’) but it’s called Elk Ridge Reamer Rentals. The website is https://www.reamerrentals.com/
Now not only do they have chamber reamers, but they also rent gauges. In this case a set of 5x57mm Mauser gauges, for 3 days, with two day express shipment, paid both ways, with a shipping container for $35!!!!

Now that is one Hell of a deal. SAAMI spec Go/No Go gauges for rent… Considering that I reeeeeeally didn’t want to buy a gauge for this because as far as I’m concerned, this’s going to be a ‘one and done’ Mauser Project. I like the Mausers, but the 7x57mm and all isn’t my bag baby.

Whereas I’ve done ONE Lee Enfield, got another on the way, and might do more in the future, owning a set of gauges pays off, just like my M4 set that I already have.

So renting as opposed to buying?
Sign me up allll day long baby!

The only issue I can see is it if fails utterly, is that getting a replacement bolt body (which on this rifle has the headspace meet up w/the chamber) takes time, and I’ll only have the gauges for 3 business days. Y’all tell me: Should I get a spare bolt body (about $45) NOW and have it on hand if this thing fails the headspace? Let me know in the comments.

So that’s been my day.
Hope y’all have a great weekend.
More Later
Big Country


18 thoughts on “Moving It Inside and The Next Level Disassembly of the FrankenMauser”

  1. Renting it again is cheaper than buying the spare bolt body for a one off rifle. If you were planning on doing another Mauser I could see it. But since you appear to prefer Limey weapons then why put out the bread on a maybe?

  2. I wouldn’t knock having the tools on hand. You can always Arfcom or Ebay them later if you really don’t have a use for them later down the road. There are plenty of other people that could use them once you’re done.

    1. At $70 per Go and $70 per No Go gauge, I don’t want to break the bank… I dig what you’re saying, and maybe down the road, but for a one-off restoration (as far as I know) I’m trying to keep the sunk costs to a minimum

      1. Rather than buy or rent gauges on various restorations,
        consider removing the extractor and placing various thicknesses
        of shim material on the bolt face to determine headspace.
        Use a SAAMI spec factory round and you’ll know if it’s close…

      2. One off?!?! Blasphemy!! EVERYONE must worship and bow to the mighty, immortal Mauser! Yer not gonna find everything, up to and including 45-70 and 12 gauge in lesser creations (I have seen .410 SMLEs)! Both of which I didn’t know about, until I ran across them in the Tennessee ARMSLIST!
        Your M1893, M1916 is really the 1st true “modern” rifle. Pre M93 mausers had a slot in the top of the receiver that the bolt handle went through. The M98, is the “perfected” version, according to the pre-downgraded post WW-ll, Germans.

  3. Reagan’s inauguration was moved inside the rotunda with almost no visitors. I had VIP passes from my congresscritter that were no use; hadda watch it on TV…

  4. Congrats on the 1916, nice score.
    Had one in 308 CETME and would chamber .308 Win, but that would overpressure.
    7X57 is a keeper…

  5. Local gunsmith showed me how to check headspace on a budget. Use no more than three thicknesses of an aluminum soda can on the bolt face and attempt to close the bolt on a fired cartridge. As long as you feel at least some resistance (*some*, not “have to use a cheater bar to move the bolt handle”), you’re likely within spec. One or two thicknesses would be ideal/preferred.

  6. You are a brave man, taking old things apart without knowing what you will find, and not knowing whether or not you’ll be able to put everything back together. I sweat every dissassembly that requires more than a simple field stripping. And I only do simple stuff.

  7. Some say the finest of all Mausers. Mine was built in 1943, a beautiful bit of machinery. Would probably cost several grand, these days, to duplicate it. Like the 7mm, the 6.5×55, hits way above it’s class, with mild recoil..

  8. I have a pdf of Jerry Kuhnhausen’s Mausers M91 through M98, you are welcome to download it if you want. It is an invaluable resource for Mauser collectors, Gunsmiths, etc

    1. I gave him links to 2 of the best (and cheaper) SMLE/N0.4 Enfield books, don’t think he was interested.

  9. Take the buttplate and the bottom metal and using some degreased 0000Steel wool
    rub the red rust and then imerse the parts in a pot of boiling water for 20 minutes. Remove the parts and rub the metal again with the steel wood, reimerse in the water. This will turn the ferric oxide(red rust) into ferrous oxide(black rust). Which is how the early Mausers were blued a process called rust bluing, it is very durable.

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