Greetings and Salutations!
Well, one of the ‘new projects’ showed up today. I think a better term is I went and retrieved it. This is the Spanish Mauser I had talked about:

Now the packaging was brilliant.
The sender took a new and unique way of doing it. From what I can tell, He wrapped the rifle in a LARGE piece of plastic. He then put a layer of spray foam into the box, and put another layer of plastic sheeting over the now sprayed-spray foam! Once he had what I’ll call the ‘bed’ made, he placed and nestled the rifle into the still-soft foam, and pulled the plastic sheet up and over, effectively mummifying it and immobilizing it. He then did the reverse on it, and lightly foamed it, did another layer of plastic, and then sealed up the box. It show up and looked like this after I finally got the fucker open:

As I sent to him via Text Message when I got it opened, that I think this thing could have been dropped from Orbit without a ‘chute, and it would have sustained ZERO damage. Color me impressed. Now, back to the rifle itself….
Turns out it’s NOT an 1898 Model, but a M1916.
That being stated, I’ll break down my findings so far, and then I’ll get into the particulars of what I’m going to be doing.
OK: First off a VERY SERIOUS THANK YOU to a long time reader, contributor and friend-of-the-blog, Scoutergreg. He’s the one who arranged this gift to me. He’s ALWAYS been a staunch supporter here, even back in the dark custody battle days. He and his Father (RIP) long ago bought this like 40+ years ago, had an ‘issue’ with it (which long story short sounds like a headspacing issue) and because of that scare, they turned it into a safe queen.
Like a lot of you who have donated items to the “Big Country Museum of Mayhem” his kids unfortunately, like many of the post Gen X Generations have ZERO interest in firearms or Military ‘stuff’ and this includes my own Spawn(s). So a lot of you recognizing that I purely LOVE this sort of thing have graciously sent me what now has become a pretty impressive collection. My intent and I’ve talked to a County Representative, we here in Tampa have a really good and recently refurbished Veterans Park.
My plan is if I cash my chips early/later, ALLLLL this stuff is going to be donated to be put on display in the New-ish Wing of the County Museum. My only request is that YOU folks have donated to me in the past re-email me at bce187th@protonmail.com your info again of what was given and your real name, because even before that happens, I’m going to do like a “Donated By” Brass Plaque in the extremely near future and leave room for ‘add ons’ so when I die, the “Museum of Mayhem” display attributes the right stuff to the right people.
For Our Posterity Aye?
Moving on.
So once I got it, I did an immediate check of the Serial Numbers. The receiver SN is indicative that the original manufacturing date or at least THIS particular one was made sometime around 1897:


Not sure what the “G 490” is on the stock… not yet leastways.
The magazine/trigger pieces/parts have a different set of numbers:

The 2A upper number I can’t find reference to yet but the 3722 indicates that came off a rifle made in 1896.
Then the bolt also has another serial number, this being F3540

That serial number indicates a bolt from an 1899 rifle.
So overall, a mix-and-match FrankenMauser.
No complaints at all… just fascinating that even back then, the factory mass production of firearms and the inherent ability for universal parts interchangeability astounds me.
Those designers back then were just waaay too good.
We might not ever see the likes of them again unfortunately.
Now the overall condition of this thing is fantastic. The only immediately obvious issue(s) are a broken sling loop on the second barrel band:

Snapped clean off who knows when?
Then a missing cleaning rod, which is easily and very cheaply replaceable at $12.50 at Sarco:

And then, a wee bit of what appears to be water damage/discoloration on the rear buttstock.

The wood overall is magnificent for it’s age (100+ years!!!) with ZERO apparent cracks or major dings so I think a light sanding, maybe some stain but definitely a TON of oil should set that straight.
Both front and rear sights have some issues. The front sight:

…is beat to fuck-all and loose on the barrel, all wiggly-jiggly. Not sure if that needs replacement or just fixing. The protective curving blades are also bent off kilter, so I’m of two minds, one being heat ’em up with a torch and gently get them back to the proper curvature, or replace it. We’ll see as we go.
The rear sight initially looked great.:

Good clean numbers, and a nice smooth sliding action of the elevation. The rear part is worn down pretty badly, but I can work with it. Then I went to check the spring on it, and found this:

Nice lil curve in that sucker Aye?
So again, Heat it and Beat it, or replace it?
Not sure. Between availability of parts and effort involved will play a part… We’ll see as we move on.
Lastly is the bore:

It’s so hard to get a good pic, and my borescope does NOT have the ability to snap a shot. I need to upgrade eventually, especially if I start doing this as a full time side-hustle. It’s waaay better than the Lee Enfield, but still… it IS 120+ years old as stated before.
I will say one noticeable thing:
Out of all my ‘crawling on the boards’ today tracking info and the like, I’m amazed at just how good a condition this particular example is in. The pictures that were posted of ‘new acquisitions’ were of some rifles in even shittier shape than my $99 Lee Enfield! Granted these things aren’t worth a lot of $$$ (about 200+/- depending on just how bad they are) but they remain popular due to the absolute badassery of the 7x57mm round it fires.

The 7x57mm is the two on the far left, and the right two are 7.62×51 NATO and 5.56mm respectively… dunno why they included a 7×55 in the middle? It positively dwarves the M4 round, and makes the M240 round look small too IMO.
It was one of the OG “Elephant Gun Rounds” back in the day in Africa. Famous British riflemakers, such as John Rigby, Holland and Holland, Westley Richards and others made some of the most beautiful and expensive hunting rifles based around this cartridge, with it being more commonly known as the .275 Rigby.
It packs one hell of a punch.
It was famous for being able to punch through an elephant skull straight on. That’s a lot of bone… dense bone. It has superior flat-trajectory characteristics, and if you really want to pare it down, this’s the Great Granddaddy to ALL modern DotMil calibers, as the US developed the 30-06 because of it, and a lot of other rounds, like the German 7.92mm were part of the ammunition evolution so to speak.
So yeah… I’m exceptionally pleased and excited.
Expect to ‘follow the bouncing ball’ over the next few weeks as I refresh this ole War Hoss, and we’ll see what I come up with. I’ll intersperse it in with my usual Badthink Crimethought so don’t think I won’t be ranting and raving as is the norm around here.
So your thoughts per usual are always welcome in the Comments (except for you Hedge… I told you to be polite man!) and I’ll be back later with more fun.
More Later
Big Country

Beautiful rifle BC, glad you’re feeling better. Need to add a Krag to you’re growing bolt gun collection, hard to beat a 6.5×55
Funny you mention the Krag. That’s what Teddy Roosevelt’s doods were armed w/at San Juan and Kettle Hill during the Spanish American War and the Spanish had the 1896 Earliest version of my new Mauser. The Department of War ordered a review after those battles as they took 20% more casualties due to the 7x57mm round than normal, and that the Spanish were ‘reaching out and touching’ at ranges that the Krag couldn’t, hence the soon-to-be introduction of the 30-06 and the Springfield M1903 and the end of the Krag… Wild Eh?
The Krag in .30-40 was a significant evolutionary leap over the trapdoor Springfield. But was found wanting against the Spanish Mauser.
Funny thing is the Lee Navy in 6mm did much better, being a hotter, flatter shooting round.
Back to the Krag, the action is wonderful to use, if said action hasn’t been beat to death and rusted as fruck.
BCE, when discussing the storied history of the 7×57 Mauser, don’t forget the Battle of Spion Kop in South Africa in 1900 in which Boer irregulars badly-bloodied the noses of the British Army forces sent out to engage them. The battle, part of the Second Boer War, was similar in some respects to the Battles at San Juan Heights in 1898 half a world away, in that skilled riflemen used control of the high ground to decimate approaching enemy forces at ranges out to a thousand yards or more.
The Boers were armed with a mix of personal weapons, including old Martini-Henry rifles, Lee-Enfields and others as well as a healthy dose of 7×57 Mausers …. but it is for the Mauser that this battle is remembered today, and the skill, field craft and riflemanship of the Boer irregulars, almost all of whom were native farmers, hunters or otherwise intimately familiar with the terrain.
Isn’t the 6.5×55 the Swedish Mauser round, while the Krag-Jorgenson is .30-40?
Yep, and .30-06 is 7.62×63 in case anyone wondered…
6.5×55 is too long for short actions so 6.5CM has taken over the market, but you can roll a lot more variety with the Swede in modern rifles, like the Savage 110 with EABCO barrel.
I have 2 old Mauser rifles that are converted to sporting rifles and I love them both. there a lot to be said for the skill of the old guys at Mauser. both are small ring and better made than most new rifles today.
no plastic. just blued steel and wood. both are in 308 and I am looking for a nice 7mm one.
there a guy at the local club that has one. but he doesn’t want to sell it.
so, still looking. kind of miss the days when they where under 100 bucks .
Yes! The classic one round is all you’ll need.
You have chosen wisely.
Once sold a Kimber/Mauser .308 Franken to a guard in a tower.
H/T to blog patron who sent it.
A new gun (or a new old gun)….always makes it a good day.
You asked about opinions on the parts you want to attempt to heat and straighten. I was once told and found to be absolutely true was you can straighten a car frame, but no matter how good you are it will never drive right again. Less true on the parts you are working on, but still. My question would be, do you want it to be as functional as possible or just a wall hanger? It is already not matching numbers so if I wanted it to be as accurate and reliable as possible if the parts are not stupid $$ then I would replace them for function.
If it is simply a display piece that actually shoots albeit with questionable accuracy etc. then I would clean it up, straighten best it best you can, (pretty good from what i have seen of your work) and make it pretty enuff to hang. Just my opinion from what I see but you asked. Still it is entertaining to watch the magic as it comes together.
Yes to try and heat up and fix the front and rear sights. Once, of course, you know you can get new or used front and rear sights in case something goes kabroken as things are wont to do.
Beautiful rifle. Looking forward to your breakdown and rebuild.
Someone else said it a post or few ago. Film the fixing and post it somewhere. Film every part of it, disassembly, repair, reassembly. Make a video for each part that comes off, each part that gets fixed, each part that goes on. Make a compilation video of them when each step is complete. Some of those videos are getting a fair number of hits, easy money for something you are already doing
May have killed some commies in the Spanish Civil War.
Not sure if you’ve read any of the Stephen Hunter novels of the Swagger clan, but I just recently finished The Bullet Garden. Might be of interest, as there are some sections regarding elephant hunting. Don’t want to spoil it if you haven’t read it. I found it extremely good.
Heating the front sight.
That sight is soldered on. Heating will turn it loose. Be prepared to realign it some how, before the solder “sets up.”
It MIGHT be soldered, but it is definitely pinned. Pic #9.
As to 7mm don’t overlook the 280Remington. Based on the 30-06 case. If you ever need to put a three rifle battery together a 30-06, 280Rem and 25-06, using Hodgdon Super Performance factory ammo have trajectory curves within an inch of each other out to 400 yards. That’s less than MOA. Those particular were chosen as Dad rifle, Mom rifle, daughter rifle. Now this performance is out of new sourced M70’s. Having the parent cartridge the same for all three is a bonus when SHTF situations cause supply issues. This is just an aside but the 25-06 has been tested against the 6.5CM and is equal for equal to normal ranges and surpasses at extreme target range. This is an another aside but according to my dead Dad (US Army, Phillipines ’45), the Jap 25 caliber rounds accounted for more GI casualties in theater than any other rifle round.
Also, the solder holding the sights on might be of the “silver” variety which may take a bit more heat to loosen. Too the previous comment on realigning said sight, making a jig to hold it in place while resoldering would be time and money well spent if redoing M98’s is going to be a side hustle.
Also, you might want to move the gunsmithing business out to the garage. Indoor space fumage might be a wee bit of an issue considering you are missing half an airbag. Also the advice to video the process is a sound one. Once made these videos can be ongoing passive revenue sources.
Molon Labe;
Spin
Man…. Forget these retarded kids. I’ll take any and all donations firearm-related from those whose progeny have no clue of what they are missing out on. As the saying goes, you can never have too many guns, too much ammo, etc unless you are on fire or drowning.
Sounds like this is a good place to ask a question. When I was 13 yo (1957) I bought what was advertised as a “Spanish American Remington Rolling Block in 45-70” from an add in a comic book. Also 100 rounds of ammo. I have never run across any thing mentioning it’s use in said war. Anyone know if it was. The rifle was confiscated by the cops for some reason I can’t remember. Thanks.
So the history of the rifle in a war is not important.what I find fascinating is that you bought the rifle from an add in a comic book. We need to hear more about this please.
Fooken’ A! It’s a Mauser, THE design that most other significant bolt guns borrowed or stole from (think pre ’64, M70 Winchester). Based on the small ring 7mm ’93 Mauser, the M1916 was a carbine (short rifle), later converted to 7.92×57 Mauser (definitely a high pressure round) and 7.62×51 NATO (not 7.62 CETME). 7mm is an awesome round, even though it starts out slower, it shoots flatter than 308 because of superior ballistic coefficient and sectional density. Unless you ended up with unfortunate clearance stacking, it will likely be a great shooter.
Check headspace and shoot it, THEN determine what level of restoration you do. End of How to Run Your Life, chapter 7. Carry on.
P.S. I’ve owned 6 Mausers from a Spanish M1916 rechambered in 308 to a Colombian M1950 in original 30.06 to my current Swedish M38, mauser in 6.5×55. Saying there is a better bolt gun than the “perfected” M98 (surely there must be) would get you argued (augured?) into the ground.
Dave, Try going to https://openai.com/ and type in “Information on Spanish American Remington Rolling Block in 45-70”.
I had this rifle in pristine condition. Several years ago I took it to a gun show and sold it. As soon as it left my hands I regretted it. I think often about the times we would take a romantic moonlight carriage rides. It’s the only firearm I ever sold.
I miss you Spanish Mauser. There is not a day that goes by that I don’t think about you.
Ok. Are you below Gainesville? Tag me.
Riverview, South of Brandon
If there are known headspace issues, it’s only logical to have any necessary parts on hand to correct the issue. As far as the front sight goes, you’ll probably get a better sight picture with a new part that fits tighter.
I always liked the small ring 7mm Mausers.
I tried all loads to make it shoot accurately, from the cupro-nickel boolits
down to the 139gr Hornady FB Interlocks which I hunt with in an original 4 groove bbl.
Behind 40grs of H380 gives me 2200fps, excellent accuracy in a fireformed case neck
sized load without worrying about mil spec headspacing.
No over penetration…