Greetings and Salutations!
LOTS of great commentary (outside of the Fed-Douchecanoe who ran back to watch his wife get gangbanged by a bunch of bucks) over the past few days.
Now, back to tonight’s “Happy-Dance/Smiley Face”
Back on the 27th, Gretchen’s birthday gift to me showed up. It was a Royal Tiger Imports Model One, Mark Three Short Magazine Lee Enfield. It was $99 as it didn’t come with a bolt, was positively soaked in Cosmoline, and had a LOT of surface scaling.
The top two pieces of wood, one was missing, the other cracked and broken AF. It was manufactured in 1939 as you can see:
Now… I haven’t been lazy…
No No… in fact between work at Glorious People’s Tractor Factory #601, and all of the medical stuff, I’ve been busy in many respects on working on it… namely the disassembly and inspection of the fiddly-bits. I also ordered what I could budget allowing.
Now a lot of people ask me why I have such an affinity for this particular long arm… Truth be told, to use a BritSpeak, I bloody well don’t know mate. I just really love the damned thing. The lines, the front nose piece (which I’ve completely stripped and is ready for bluing when the rest of the parts are done marinating in the rust remover):
Got ALL the rust and old bluing off, and now I only have to re-degrease it, then do a cold bluing. As you can see, there was still some cosmo in the nooks and crannies, but that’s been resolved since. Thank God for a set of dental picks.
Part of it makes me wonder if it’s that Charlie Brown Poster:
Sure looks like he’s toting a SMLE.
Either way, I worked on getting the main body into the flower bed thing… I’m using this as a soaking tray to let the rust remover do it’s job overnight:
As you can see, I worked on the receiver itself using the Birchwood-Casey “Blue and Rust Remover” which worked pretty damned well for the most part:
Like I said, there was a fair amount of heavy rust, as it’d been stored w/out a bolt.
Now, the worst of the scaling I had to use my Dremel and a small wire brush attachment. THAT did the trick. Blew the scaling off pretty damned well. And now the whole of the main barrel and receiver are ‘marinating’ overnight, along with ALLLLLL the fiddly-bits in 4 inches of concentrated rust remover. That ought to handle the majority of problems. I’ll be hitting it after with MOAR degreaser (carb cleaner in this case) and then re-hitting the WHOLE thing with a brass brush where needed, and Dremel whatever needs to be Dremeled.
I also got the bolt in… that was the most expensive part I needed. $89.00 from a guy on gunbroker. Complete bolt, new/old stock.
Now the plus on this is even after my minimal rust removal, the bolt, with some lube and encouragement actually slid home and locked successfully!
Yay me!
BUT… as we all know I can never have a “first time go at this station”. Nope. I totally forgot to get pix, which kind of pisses me off, but let me embed the video:
11 minutes, and very useful for me.
What I did not realize was MY bolt? The firing pin was ‘recessed’ in the bolt… turns out when you remove the bolt, and the bolt isn’t cocked, that the firing pin ‘sticks out’ of the face of the bolt.
I found out why after I tore it down.
I got the firing pin disassembly tool for like $10 at Sarco? Or maybe Numrich… Can’t remember off the top of my head, but it was cheap. The firing pins on these apparently are notorious for breaking, as a 6.6in long, thin firing pin, I can see why.
What I did find out though, and what my problem was is the firing pin, back where it screws into the cocking device (that’s the rectangular finned lever at the ass end of the bolt) MY firing pin had a slight bend in it. Like call it 8 degrees… bent about 3/4 of an inch from the rear of the firing pin itself, but NOT on the screw threading. Visually very hard to see until I started screwing it into the cocking piece on it’s own. THEN you could very obviously see the ‘wobble-wobble’ which is why the pin, once cocked, wasn’t coming back out.
Took a soft gunsmith hammer and a punch pin to get the firing pin out… at first I thought it was all the crusted up cosmo… but nope… a bad firing pin.
$15 to replace.
Seeing’s I’m on a budget, and I’m “that guy” for better or for worse, Me? I broke out the fucking blowtorch, and heated that fucker up. Put it in my vice’all have seen in the various background shots of ye olde workbench… Got it niiiiiice and red hot, and a couple of gentle whacks with a brass hammer, to where my Mark One Mod One eyeball said “Good enuff for DotGov work” and then quenched it in oil/CLP.
I mean why not right?
So, long story getting longer, it worked like a charm. The pin now slides in and out, smooth as glass and functions perfectly. Next payday I’ll order me like two spares, as ‘one is none’ Aye?
God I’m having soooooo much fun doing this, no joke.
I purely LOVE doing weapons restoration.
So, ALL metal is now soaking in the rust remover. That’s a 24 hour operation. The only thing I had left was to start degreasing and checking out the wood.
And man, I can tell this thing has been through a hard life of being banged around. No idea if it actually saw combat… being manufactured in 1939, I have questions:
but still… the wood is well worn, dinged to fuck-all and back, and like I said, the top pieces-parts were either missing or broken. I stared by (against instructions and advice) by spraying it down with the carb cleaner. I know, I know… but the crust of cosmo wasn’t being handled by ANY other means. No worries tho, I as you will see, made sure everything was copacetic after…
After degreasing multiple times, and scrubbing the fuck out of it with a nylon brush, THIS is what I ended up with after doing ONE coat of boiled linseed oil
Whooooa Momma!
That is one sexxxxy BritRifle.
I put the nose-cap on to help keep everything in place for the pic… There’s only two concerns I have to deal with. ONE is a crack in that lower forearm:
Not a ‘fatal crack’… I think a fill/sand/stain/oil should take care of it. The OTHER issue I have is on the buttstock:
See that circle carved into the back part?
That’s where the “Makers Mark”, a lil brass disk should be. In fact, the buttplate itself, as it was a pre-war SMLE, is brass as well.
My problem is that I found one.
The disk that is.
My issue is this, Here’s a comparative pic of the original buttplate, and the new disk (which BTW came also with the appropriate brass screw):
SERIOUS differences in the patina and presentation.
That disk will stand out like a whore in church.
Granted, I’m rebluing the whole thing, de-scaling it, doing a full on refurb, to include guaging, test firing (when it’s ready, and whatnot, but maaaaan… that disk is just so overwhelmingly shiny AF.
Sapper suggested I find a way to ‘quick patina/fake age’ it…. What say y’all? Either way I’m forced to hit it with a bit of filing to make it fit into the socket juuuust right but I’m not sure about aging it… let me know in the comments.
Other than that, I’m fucking exhausted.
At Lunchtime today, (one hour whereas I normally take 30 minutes) Sapper and I did the brakes on the Hyundai. I started getting the very start of the metal-to rotor grind. Turns out that Hyundai’s, or at least the Tucson I have has a leeway where the pad starts doing a wee bit of grinding as a warning so to speak “Hey asshole, you need to change the brake pads!”
Between the two of us, and the YouTube video, we got it done in 45 minutes. Both front sets of pads… the rotors (of course) were pristine despite the dire warnings of Ye Olde Mechanics Shppes herebouts… who ALL wanted at a minimum $400 for just the front pads and (possibly) the rotors.
Considering these were the SAME brake pads that came with the car? and I’ve got 99,000 miles on it? Color me impressed. The good OEM pads cost me $40, and Sapper and I got it done in an hour.
Fuck you Pep Boys.
BUT because of this, I’m sore as all get out. Too much bending at weird angles for my compressed and disintegrating spinal column. Ah well… it is what it is.
So More Later
Big Country
Hey, just wanted to respond to Jason’s (yesterday?) comment about illegals and healthcare.
Dude, they’re coming here with very complicated medical conditions.
I get calls from ER doctors, and have to wake up all sorts of specialists in the middle of the night and get other hospitals to take these people (cuz the ED they’re at doesn’t have those specialty services).
BTW it’s really hard to find a lot of these verrry specialized docs.
(The deception being the right to healthcare…)
So, consider this:
Our hospitals were already running in “surge capacity“ for maybe a third of the winter time. I’m talking about the system I work for. (BTW don’t threaten me cuz I work in the healthcare system. Threats don’t go over well with me, thank you).
By declaring surge capacity, we are telling the state we are in an internal disaster, literally.
So this was our baseline before this massive invasion, and you can imagine what it’s been doing to our healthcare system. Massive cost cutting.
P, I don’t threaten nor get mad at the ‘grunts on the ground’ in the healthcare industry… in fact, now tomorrow, b/c of this I think I have to relate a BAD incident I had w/Spawn #1 back in 07? My ire is aimed at the fuckers who get paid bonuses to make either corpses or “lifetime customers”…
Like that CEO Fucker, who I hope is tasting his own lower intestinal output while burning in Hell.
‘Cos fuck them motherfuckers.
Sideways
or
Vertically
Preferably with a dull chainsaw.
Oh yeah. No, BCE I wasn’t referring to threats from you. There was a dude here days ago who advocated the killing of us “minions” since the big dogs will now have personal security.
My comment was preemptive.
Before I became a desk jockey it was a “normal” part of my job to have a LOT of people threaten me with all sorts of murder and mayhem, which didn’t go over well with me when we got out of ears reach of other staff.
I’ll spare you a long rant, LOL!
As an aside I kinda see my job as like when Daniel served the wicked king Nebuchadnezzar. The analogy only goes so far, but he was faithful to the king, but only up to a point. He did not disobey God.
So yeah, a lot of us peons are wicked. Look at our response to Covid, but I spoke out against it when I could and sure didn’t condone it. The hive mentality is real. The one thing I still haven’t been able to get myself to do is watch a single one of the videos where the nurses danced to promote locking down the healthy, and taking the shots. Too painful, and I don’t need to… I’m not part of the hive, nor do I need to defend my life before any man. God will be my judge.
The Military Industrial Complex has similarities to the Medical Industrial Complex, and I don’t have ill will toward current military members.
Anyways, keep it up BCE. I appreciate your honesty, cuz without it we’re nothing but fake masks.
It isn’t the “frontline” workers that are the problem with our healthcare system. It is the insurance companies, management/administration, and especially good old fedgov. I’m amazed that the boots on the ground personnel last as long as they do at their jobs.
It wasn’t until after I left the bedside, after over two decades, that I realized just how stressful it was.
It seems ethereal.
The abuse is constant.
So many Americans are extremely entitled, totally irresponsible, and aren’t accountable for their actions.
My role (as a leader) was more of like a prison guard, which I’ve never wanted to be (…”as a patient you also have responsibilities”) (“kicking (that young beautiful female RN) is not acceptable…” blah blah blah.
And with our “zero tolerance for violence” policy I knew that when I got attacked I would have to be able to show evidence of damage to myself afterwards (bruises, etc) if I ever defended myself/others or they’d end my career. Totally against Krav Maga.
‘Nuff said.
Enjoy the weekend!
Had my nose broken by a patient.
You’re in the field, too?
A older coworker of mine was fired, and nearly destroyed his career, it took about six months of a lawyer working for him to at least not have his career completely destroyed.
Some huge and much younger guy had just punched him in the face so hard his glasses were all the way across the room. And my coworker is the one they went after, just for pushing the guy back down into a chair as he was trying to get up. The reason he pushed him down was because if he’d gotten up, he would’ve fallen. And when patients fall, we are the ones held liable, not them.
The public has zero idea what goes on inside hospital walls.
And, when they are themselves patients, or they visit, they see generally agreeable and seemingly calm staff. They have no idea that staff member just walked out of a room under duress. We have to project calm and control, but man does it get old.
Hospitals and Nursing homes.
One of my FIRST jobs ever was at a Nursing Home. DeadDad thought it would ‘toughen me up’
Was the (at the time) youngest guy to pass the CNA (Certified Nursing Assistant) statewide test at what the facility thought I was (16) when I was actually 15… DeadDad’s fren was the woman who was in charge (manager/facility boss) so she ‘slipped me in’ slightly underage. The problem? Being like the ONLY male in the place? I got ALL the shit-work (over and above bedpan duty)… nope… they assigned me to the Bravo Ward… those were the people on “the last train to Clarksville” i.e. the soon-to-die.
It totally sucked.
It was unbelievably hard
Like one in particular that STILL stands out almost 40+ years after the fact… Mister Herman… can’t remember his last name… he had chronic bedsores… seriously ill all the time. Died from infection. His Mind was clear as a bell, and used to tell me stories about his experiences in the 101st at the Battle of The Bulge ‘cos he knew I was a DotMil interested kid… NICE old guy…
I had to ‘bag and tag’ him… to say it left a mark? Understatement of the millennium
To this day, I curse and thank DeadDad for this…
I won’t call it an ‘opportunity’, but maybe a life lesson?
YMMV
Its going to be beautiful when you are done!
Thanks Matt… Y’all will have a front row seat as we go. I cold blued the front ‘nose piece’ tonight, and -I- think it looks great
That’s coming along quite nicely. And consider me suitably impressed that you knocked out a front brake job in 45 minutes. Good show all around.
Tell you what, we’re BOTH sorry and sore afterwards…
Sapper did the ‘heavy lifting’ (jacking up the car while I broke the lugs and took the tires off) and I figured out what the lil metal spring-clips were for for the pads (new design he hadn’t seen before, as he’s the brains of this operation)…seems they’re ‘return springs’ that cause the pads to ‘go back out’ when you remove pressure from the brake pedal
Literally after puzzling it out, and me finding an explanation on YouTube, I came out, and did the solution with no mess nor fuss, he looked at me and said “Apes together, STRONG!” LOL
Damned right.
Also appreciate the compliment on the rifle.
Anti drag springs/draf reduction slips help to increase mpg. Should replace those w/ oem new if you didn’t. Aftermarket pads generally better than oem but wear rotors faster. Hyundais generally start having snowball issues around 120k to 150k, so probably not worth upgrading…
Regardless, speedy work!
Aging brass:
https://inmyownstyle.com/how-to-age-brass-in-less-than-5-minutes.html
Appreciate it!
A litle wood glue and a clamp should keep the crack from getting worse.
When I was separated from the first wife, the Handmaiden of Satan, prior to the actual divorce I bought a large ring Mauser action and had it re-barreled to .308 and built myself a bolt to keep me out of trouble. I re-stained the wood and did a custom paint job on it.
A few years ago I put it into an Archangel stock that gives it a detachable 10 round magazine and I am quite happy with it.
1 moa as well. Can’t complain. Still want to go Elk hunting with it. It is the Rod from God on whitetails.
I’ve restored many Enfields, starting with an old RIC carbine from 1900. I also have a mint 1941 Lithgow, like it was made yesterday, no idea how it was never issued thru WW2.
Suggest you invest in this book if you’re going to do it correctly;
https://www.amazon.com/British-Enfield-Internet-Workshop-collectors/dp/1882391160
Last summer, I bought a bunch of cosmoline to coat the underside of my truck with.
I’ve fought taking it off of multiple old Mausers and a single Enfield…and now I’m putting it ON something? Right on the can, it says that mineral spirits and diesel are an excellent solvents for removing it.
Also, the SOCOM Blue cerakote is an excellent replacement for hot bluing; apparently environmental restrictions have more or less killed the hot bluing industry.
Most of the Enfields were fire blued, only the Ishapores were tank blued. My Lithgow has a nice grey parkerizing on it.
Everything I see on the lanolin spray for your truck is good, lasts a long time too. UT roads suck from all the salt, would never buy one from there.
Not fire blued, but heated and oil quenched, gave them a black carbon coating.
The later Mk 4’s were then painted black to prevent rust, a common finish for all their WW2 weapons.
Yeah, I was going to put the Woolwax on it, then saw someone used cosmoline and I thought I’d give that a shot. So far so good!
Parkerizing sure is a good look.
Just a thought for the cracked stock repair. If, and it is a big IF, there is enough wood between the bottom of the barrel channel and the bottom of the stock, to make it look like an rear area depot field repair, a slotted stock bolt with a recessed nut drilled thru and then when you glue it will help clamp it down. (Like false recoil lug) Also save any of the sanding dust at apply to the glued surface to be wiped into the crack when removing the excess glue before it dries when sanded after the repair should be almost invisible. Again just a thought your project so you do what you want. Glad to hear Wife isdoing better, still sending prayers.
Ooh! I like the idea of saving the sanding dust….
NEVER thought of that… Fucking Brilliant Fren!!!!!
Mix it into the filler as well (the stuff I have is essentially gorilla glue wood putty… even diluted it’s enough to make a negress’s hair into a bulletproof shell…)
Jes’ Sayin’
But yeah… I was actually saving some of the cosmo scrapings (the black, thick nasty shytte) and wanted to ‘rub it in’ -thinly- on the ‘top wood’ pieces-parts to stain them before round #3 of the oil…. GREAT IDEA man…. owe you a beer or 6….
If you look at old cracked and chipped stocks, the Brits salvaged all they could, I’ve seen stocks with 3-4 spliced wood patches on them. You can see brass pins thru the forends that fixed cracks like yours.
Clamp the stock, drill pilot hole, insert glue and then insert the brass pin. When dry, cut the brass pin and file it smooth with 6″ mill bastard file.
I’ve done several of these in the last 40+ yrs of gunmaking.
https://www.brownells.com/tools-cleaning/gun-tools/stock-tools/stock-repair-pin-kit/
Learned that trick with the dust back in Jr High shop class over55 yrs ago when making a small stand out of walnut cut offs. Used it since then on a few repairs. Helps when trying to make the grain sort of match in the fit up.
A one shot stopper or good for vintage Sniperkrieg.
Have all of the vintage rifles would rock, KaR98, M1, Mosin-Nagant, you got the Brit.
The Japs had some crap weapons, and they lost.
Love that Mosin in Enemy At The Gates Vasily Zeitzev sniper setup and yes it has the love interest angle other than that a realistic portrayal of Stalingrad.
Online people review complaining about well the collar tabs on the NKVD uniforms are not accurate, get over it already.
You probably already have a non-fading stain in your kitchen: instant coffee. Three tablespoons in a teacup of boiling water, let it cool while you prep your surface with 280 grit paper, then apply coats with the grain, letting them dry. Resist temptation or negligence in the early morning to drink the stain mixture, or licking the workpiece.
Are you going to temper that bubba hardened firing pin? Shine it up with a cleanish pot scourer and lay it on an electric stove hotplate on high, with the tip hanging off in air. Grab it with pliers when the oxide colour starts going from brown to purple and dunk it cold in old motor oil. Probably wise to keep spousal entity busy far far away, and ventilate and clean crime scene thoroughly before evidence can be detected. Differential hardening experiments in the galley may cause disturbance in the berth.
Ya might also try a couple of tea bags.
I’ve got a metal tea-ball for loose leaf tea.
The thing looks like it’s about a 100 years old even after cleaning. Just a thought.
The good ol’ Smelly!!! ☺️👍
Yer gonna get that bolt headspaced before ya fire it, right? The restoration looks good so far – stock up on stripper clips!
To patina the disc, throw it in your possibles bag on your next trip out with the muzzleloader. After mopping the bore – use the soiled bore patch to wrap around the disc. Keep it moist and the black powder fouling will put a patina on that thing that will look period correct.
My first rifle was a refurbed Enfield No.4 Longbranch… I foolishly sold it to finance another iron and I regret it to this day…
NOT A HOAX: Countless new viruses to be released the day Trump takes office.
Jimstonereloaded.com – World Class Investigative Truth
I had a Mark IV No. 1 (1943) that I used for deer season that I bought at the Florida Fairgrounds in Tallahassee for $110 back in the early 90’s + $10 for the proper sling. Shot like a house on fire. Even back then .303 British wasn’t cheap, like a $1.50 per trigger pull. The B.S.A. co, is British Small Arms, later of motorcycle fame. Haven’t written in awhile, but I check in everyday hoping for a new post… Sent a few prayers your way. God bless us all.
Oh, yeah, if you find the proper bayonet for that thing, don’t “fix” it. That’s illegal in Fla. You’ll put your eye out, kid (apparently).
Thanks for the tip Riddle, I have my WWII M1 carbine with its bayonet fixed and hanging on the wall.
It’d be my luck that Johnny Law comes into my house for something, sees that and charges me.
What a buncha BS. What do they think, you’re going to bayonet charge somebody ?
Well a Brit grabbed a Narwhal spear off the wall and went after a Middle East Knife Influencer as he was stabbing other Brits on London Bridge so I suppose anything could happen
To lift bad dings in the stock, lay a wet towel over the affected part and press with a hot clothes iron. This will also pull decades of finger goozy, fine dust and dead linseed oil out of the wood – making it ready for a considerate sanding with fine-fine-fine sandpaper and the application of furniture oil – try teak oil if you can get it.
The stock crack looks nasty. Simple gluing probably won’t do the business. Consider drilling and pinning the affected part.
The dishwasher also works miracles for getting the cosmoline and dings out. Forgot about that one.
I know very little about the SMLE and much of that is probably wrong but I was told the bolts have a 1-4# to adjust headspace as things wear. There should be a stamp on the bolt but I don’t know if they put a mark anywhere on the receiver to note the changes. For reloading there’s an aftermarket o-ring to hold the brass to the bolt for fireforming and then you can neck size for longer brass life, let’s you use the fireformed shoulder to headspace from instead of the rim.
BCE:
You should have bought three firing pins. One for the gun and two for spares. The one currently in the gun gets taken out and turned into jewelry for The Pretty Wife. Think drop pendant for between the funbagos. Home made heat treating is a fools errand. Learn it, love it, live it. Taught to me by my Dad, BSME ’50, Kept by me, BSME ’90, Handed down to daughter, BSME ’17.
Prayers still being sent. Is there an update on a prognosis. The Usual Suspects are pulling for you. Also the $20 large for the hospital stay, how did that go with the appeals process? You might want to get another SMLE and do the same thing. Seems cost add up to around $225 and then have a blog auction to raise some funds. A squared away SMLE would be nice to have.
Also the Charlie Brown picture, you should dress up like that and make a poster to sell. “Apocalypse of the Rakkasan.”
Spin
Have you tried pinning the brass to your lapel and then walking by a First Sergeant?
BWAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!
I like that!
The reason you dig those rifles is probably you were a Brit soldier in a past life. Bet you looked good in those little berets with pom poms, little shorts and socks:)’
LOL.
But, seriously, I shot an Enfield once and forgot to slide my hearing protection back over my ears, and it was brutal. Electric sounds for a really long time. And to think, those Brits shot them all the time without hearing protection. Bit of a kick too.
“What’d you say?” “Huh? What?”
No wonder the national phrase for Britain post-war was “Eh Wot Guv’ner?”
Deaf motherfuckers one and all is my guess LOL
Steel wool will give lots of scratch lines, and it’ll definitely look out of place. See if you can find someone with a bead-blaster or sand-blasting rig. Paasche Airbrush Co. makes an air-eraser with grit that works great for such things as well. Just a light even finish before you do the darkening. You’ll be amazed at how it’ll match the buttplate (without all the deeper dings). Birchwood-Casey makes Brass Black. Instead of dipping, use a Q-Tip and wipe it to repeatedly until you get the color that you want. I’ve done this before, and I’m confident that you’ll be happy with it.
I’m a bit jealous – I’ve always liked the SMLEs and 03A3s.
The grit or bead blast media will give it a very soft matte finish before you start to slowly darken it to match the butt plate. It’ll look naturally aged.
I second the bead blaster, but find the finest blasting media you can, do every nook and crevice.
Wear rubber gloves, shoot every tiny screw and pin (hold with needle nose pliers) and put in a clean bin with ZERO oil or grease contamination. If you think it’s contaminated, spray it off with carb cleaner.
When you apply the blueing with a super clean degreased swab (I use the wool swabs for leather dye) the metal will turn black, but probably closer to original finish than hot tank bluing would. Warm metal takes finish better than cold metal, heat it up with a heat gun and start at the muzzle and work your way down inside the entire action. Then do the small parts.
After blue, I apply lanolin just like they did to WW2 parkerizing, today it comes in a square can of Bag Balm. Again, hot metal and a toothbrush of Bag Balm inside everything you can coat. Wipe off excess and assemble. If you want to cut corners, you’ll get a shitty job. I usually bead blast at 10-12 noon and by 5pm I’m having a beer with an assembled rifle.
I sand the buttplate with strips of sanding cloth, then let it tarnish naturally. Don’t forget to disassemble that and do the small parts also.
I’ve had good luck with this Dicropan, as have several of my professional gunmaker friends;
https://www.ebay.com/itm/126013340040?mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338765313&toolid=20006&customid=d9589cff69a03ed92de5229f16dc1e7a
Are you missing the mag, or did it just not make it in to the photo’s?
Aging brass: hit with ammonia for a bit to turn it green. Then rub it with mineral spirits (paint thinner) to give it that green/brown glow we all love. Not too hard. A little buff with brass wool to work it in, or take it off and do it again because the color doesn’t look quite right.
I like the SMLE. It’s a nice rifle.
“Sapper suggested I find a way to ‘quick patina/fake age’ [the SMLE disk] …”
First: Given your budget, suggestions of the chemical variety should be tried out on the back side with a Q-tip, and if that works, you can go whole hog.
The problem is that you need both wear and oxidation to match.
Got a friend with a rock tumbler? You could probably get the right kind of wear by throwing it into a rock tumbler with some washers and general purpose medium polishing grit for a few minutes.
The oxidation comes after that and you can try hydrogen peroxide 3% with a Q-tip on the back side of the disk.
If the disk is on the more stainless steel side, ferric chloride circuit board etchant is a Lewis acid that may work for the patina.
Back when Radio Shack was around, you used to be able to get pint bottles of that stuff for cheap, but maybe you have some other kind of electronics hobby supply that stocks it where you are.
Or try both in alternating use to get the wear, patina, and color you want.
The types of steel look different, so what you’re after is getting it closer than what it is rather than trying for near perfection.
Both processes are going to be slow, which is why the suggestion to try on the back side of the disk so you get an idea of what it will tolerate first.
Then you can polish the disk and perhaps go for a small “dunk tank” (small red plastic shot cup) with each chemical.
With patience and luck, maybe this will work out.
Ah, my eyes and the lighting … that’s brass?
Ferric chloride then with a Q-tip, start with that and alternate to the peroxide if you need it.
Ferric chloride solution was sold at Radio Shack so you could etch the crappy printed circuit board stock that they sold to electronics hobbyists.
I believe the solution strength was 3% to 4% dilution of ferric chloride in distilled water, and 3% hydrogen peroxide should be strong and safe enough but it’ll also take a while.
Another weird thing that used to work was those “invisible writing” pens that were sold to kids, they’d work with the ferric chloride but what came out was a bit more green.
You could wet a spot down on the back with one and then see what it’d do in the ferric chloride.
Big Bad Billy, NOT‼️
All you are is a loudmouth shitty story teller with a crew of duped fanboys. You hide behind a screen and make it your business tearing down other people. But when a man who doesn’t kiss your smelly ass and is not a fan points out a glaring snafu you go and silence his voice and ask your mindless sheep to attack him.
Well super solider ( I have my doubts ) nobody came knocking.
So after I point out to you that it is now suspected that the thing may not even be a actual pew-pew, I’m personally inviting you to post a plea for money and then come north. Straight up 95 dummy. Let me know when you get in the area and we can meet up. Oh no, I forgot, you “roll heavy.” Um, yeah I’m not even a little bit worried about that. Hey if you’re having trouble finding me, just ask your fed bro. Oh that’s right he doesn’t talk to you. Why is that? I know why. Because he knows that you’re just a blowhard low life that runs on overdrive to your date with self inflicted flameout. Hey, question for you, have you ever told your followers that your name is Billy? Not that I remember. Isn’t that funny. I know you and I even know where you live. But you can’t say the same about me. So really smart boy, I’ll save you the embarrassment of having to do another grift to get money for the tolls on 95. Just say the word and I’ll come see you. Don’t worry, I’m not coming to your home, that’s rude. I’ll just walk up in a public place and introduce myself. Then you will stare at the cold hard truth as realization sets in for you that you are not a bad man at all, and at that moment when I see the dim light register in your stupid face I’ll have the satisfaction knowing that a warm gravy just ran down your leg. Can’t wait to get a couple pictures of that to show your sheep dipped fanboys. What’d ya say smart boy. I think that sounds like a good time. See what I did there? I invited you with a good time. I’m waiting for you to answer if you’re interested. Till then, I won’t be holding my breath. We both know you won’t.
Anytime, anywhere fag.
And I’ve never hidden myself, unlike you.
Lots of tough talk
You have NO IDEA what went on with me and FedBro.
“Because he knows that you’re just a blowhard low life that runs on overdrive to your date with self inflicted flameout.”
No, it’s b/c I ‘noticed’ things, and he married a member of the tribe and was majorly offended by my subsequent poasts, so, again, you got nothing faggot.
I let you poast so’s people can see what a real life shit-talking anus is.
“Just say the word and I’ll come see you.”
Feel free to show up here.
You haven’t the balls.
Gutless. Fucking. Internet. Coward.
Fag
Womanless Incel if I had to guess
Probably a basic trainee first-week failure to adapt washout.
Castle Doctrine is a thing, and this qualifies if you step on my property and I ventilate you.
PLEASE
I welcome the challenge
Can I sue your estate after the fact for damages, please let me know in the comments fucktard.
And you STILL: haven’t utilized a VPN!?!
Germantown Maryland!?!
GTFO here with that shit, you fucking weak-tea loser.
Did your momma have any children that lived?
Obviously NOT
Gang: Have at this fuck if you want: IP Addy 2001:5b0:49cb:cbf8:65e5:77dd:2872:85aa
Fucking asshole thinks THIS is going to stress me or upset me?
Jesus, this fucker wasn’t around for the whole “broad who tried to get me to kill her family” thing entrapment case (where I ended up talking to the Feds over THAT shytte… BTW, she’s in jail now for a LOOOOOONG time) with the whole “threatening my grandkids” and fake pedophile shytte.
Note to you faggot: It’ll taker a LOT more than this.
It’s obvious you lack any sort of life if you
A) Lurk Here
and
B) Have to be a fucking sperm-burping faggot of the Nth Degree to try and start talking mad shit you can never back up IRL.
Seriously: Get professional help. I’m just some rando fucktard poasting my life experiences on the net. You don’t like it or believe it, then go away
To continue otherwise means the problem lies within YOURSELF, not me. Plenty of others out there for you to harass. Your oh so hard line of “I’ll just walk up in a public place and introduce myself. Then you will stare at the cold hard truth as realization sets in for you that you are not a bad man at all, and at that moment when I see the dim light register in your stupid face I’ll have the satisfaction knowing that a warm gravy just ran down your leg.”
Heh…ain’t never going to happen as A) you lack the balls as stated before, and B) I never stand down anymore. So go fuck yourself and your keyboard badassery. Like I said:
You. Ain’t Got. The. Balls. Faggot.
You don’t like my writing or stories?
Then why are you here?
As the incoming OMB would say:
Sad!
Sooooooo…..
What do you want?
Never learnt how to play in a sandbox with others.
Ok, we are all so scared and intimidated by your amazingawesomeness. The universe rotates around your brain, your biceps are the size of Mars, and everyone submissively urinates upon seeing you.
I hope you feel better now, sir.
Now grow up, and get a job.
I don’t post a lot, but this struck a cord. I’ve always had a strange affinity for full stock vintage rifles. I think it started with an obscure George C Scott movies “Islands in the Stream” where he popped off a few rounds trying to save a kid from a shark – not the same rifle as yours (the bolt is too far forward), and still not sure what he was using (a dude with a BAR took out said shark). Also fascinated with the Martini-Henry rifles in “The Man would be King” (very underrated movie that my father showed me as a kid). Here’s a link to Scott scene (starting at 3:22).
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=QRIcwtsCMNc
Bought but couldn’t get home (dammit!) a Henry-Martini (Martini-Henry? either way, same rolling breech lock I’m sure) in .455BP I think? rifle in Afghanistan…
Supposedly we -could- get them home (they sold demil’d ones in the bazaar) but when I tried to ship it, the KBR pukes at the mail room told me that it was a no-go…
Feds are gonna raid you. Some anonymous Karen from Texas is going to report to authorities that you have a pipe bomb in your home at your rifle workspace there. And she is gonna report your dog is rabid. Anyways…
I have an Enfield in .308 made back in the 60s at the India factory. There was this science fiction movie I saw once(don’t remember the name of it) but a guy had an Enfield with a 12 gauge pump mounted to it. Sounds kinda dumb and it was but it was kinda cool at the same time. I was going to try to build a copy but never got around to it.
Enfield–big like! And with an off numbered bolt, no problemo because this boom-stick uses a rimmed round, so no head spacing I believe. I want an Enfield, but I want the Ishipore .308 version. I believe the Enfield is especially good for beating down commies into the gutter with rifle butts–as they were very effective in India doing the same against the natives during the imperial occupation.
Back in the Nav. we’d steal “bug juice” packets from the mess-deck, mix up a batch in a mop-bucket. Then we’d throw our corroded green “verdigris” copper drain funnels in to soak, light hit with a wire or nylon brush… Beautimus. Trouble was the type of bug juice affected the final “copper” color. Yellow and orange were preferred as they came closest to natural. Red could be fun, a bit dark on the copper, but it added individuality to a watchstation. Don’t use the lime green, we’re trying to get rid of green. Purple was asking to get called out on zone inspection… though the real darkness of the “purple” copper was nice, we were supposed to go for bright and shiny.
Seastory aside: there are countless solutions that will age and color metal, never would have thought military “kool-aid” would “stain” copper. Chlorine, ammonia, on the extreme end, salt water and time will do too, cold water =more O2= more oxidation, (to a point) hot water =less O2= less severe oxidation (opposite is true for air)
For a personal touch, wear that “makers” disc on a lanyard for a summer of sweat and contamination. That patina would TRULY be your own. Good luck, I’ll be watching.